Bleau, Sideways Daze, 8B
Pour son birthday, Guigui passe (de peu) à côté du flash de Sideways Daze (8B) au Cuvier Rempart mais se rattrape en l'expédiant quelques minutes après...
Un beau cadeau d'anniv qui ferait plaisir à bien des grimpeurs!
Une vidéo signée Marshall.
Legends Only 2011
On demand, here's an even shorter version of the La Sportiva Legends Only comp that took place at Klättercentret Telefonplan in october.
Un résumé de 12 minutes est disponible en cliquant sur "Lire plus"...
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Adam Ondra - First 8C Boulders
Adam Ondra climbed his first two 8C boulders in November 2010 in Ticino, Switzerland.
BIG PAW - 8B+/C
FROM DIRT GROW THE FLOWERS - 8C
This small video is small Christmas present form "BERNARTWOOD studio" to all climbers. These 2 boulders did not find its place in the final movie about Adam. They were planned to be on the DVD in EXTRAS. But yesterday, I decided to edit it a bit and give it to everybody...
Sorry for the "big" movie about Adam taking so long, it was incredibly hard work, mainly mental, but it is finished, and prepared for delivering. We would like to put it out as a HD DOWNLOAD on December 31st, if all technical aspects will be OK.
DVD with really rich extras will follow in January.
All the important info (length, formats, prices, film tour etc) will appear after December 26th on WWW.ADAMONDRAFILM.COM
Have a nice and quiet non-consume winter time...
Petr Pavlíček - author of the movie.
The Mark of the Beast
One lone man in the middle of the desert does the impossible and turns back the hands of time. After a five year hiatus from the bouldering mecca of Hueco Tanks, Texas. Jay Bone returns to try and prove himself on the stone that made him the man he is today. His inner struggle is only half the battle as he try's to earn the Mark of the Beast, with his trusty sidekick Flash at his side.
Une vidéo CryptoChild par Jason Kehl.
Straight Out of Africa
Brian Antheunisse, Scott Cory, Rob D'Anastasio and Dave Wetmore travel to Rocklands, South Africa on a bouldering safari. Follow the crew as they climb over 20 boulders from 7B to 8B, narrowly avoid being eaten by lions and all to a 1980's soundtrack!
Boulders included :
Amphitheatre (8A+)
Au Bour d'Leau (8A)
Black Mango Chutney (7C+)
Black Shadow (8A+)
Black Velvet (8A)
Cedar Spine (7C)
Gliding Through Waves Like Dolphins (8A)
Golden Virginia (8A)
Green Mamba (8A)
Hole in One (7C+)
Last Day In Paradise (7C+)
Mooiste Meise (8B)
Nutsa (8A)
Oral Office (8A+)
Paula Abdul (7C+)
Pinotage (7C+)
Power of One (8B)
Roadcrew Arete (7B)
Royksopp (8A)
Shosholoza (8A+)
Solar Power (7C+/8A)
The Vice (8B)
Witness the Sickness (8A)
© Louder Than 11
lt11.com
Adam Ondra à Bleau
Article extrait de Kairn.com
Par Pierre Délas - Kairn.com / crédit photos : Lukas Vancura et Pierre Délas
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Sasha DiGiulian "Pure imagination", 9a
On October 15th 2011, Adidas team athlete, Sasha DiGiulian became the first American women to climb the grade 9a (5.14d) with her historic ascent of "Pure Imagination" in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. Keith Ladzinski and Andy Mann (Three Strings Media) were there to capture her efforts and tell her story.
Life on Hold
Ned Feehally attempts Samson at Burbage South in the Peak District. A preview from our upcoming film "Life On Hold"
PS : Ce bloc est taillé pour Hans : y'a un pied bien haut!
Neil Dose de Novembre 2011
November Dose for you all to enjoy, this month there has a been lots of discussions on the forums about ethics in bleau, and the way chalk and pads have been misused, my videos taking the brunt of it all. I tried not to get involved but personal attacks made it hard not to.
Basically it boils down to some simple facts, people putting tick marks all over the blocs and not cleaning them off after climbing, also stacking pads to start routes.
So please respect the forest, and leave it the way you found it, if you see tick marks on boulders please try and clean then off.
Bouldering is becoming very popular and the forest has seen more climbers than ever this year and it is only going to get worse. We need to enjoy the forest and preserve it for future generation so please read this and enjoy the forest.
• Clean off your tick marks
• Don’t misuse chalk
• Take your litter home
• Dig a hole for the toilet
• Don’t chip the rocks
• Respect others around you
• But most of all, respect the forest
So that said, back to the climbing, the conditions have been great in the forest this month, but I have not, 2 weeks off with man flu :) but some great climbs none the less, I think its going to be a good winter.
The climbs:
• Kendo 7c - Mont Pivot
• Le Toit du ninja blanc 7a - JA Martin
• La Mouche 7a - Beauvais
• Nature 7c+ - Cuvier
• Le Chavaliers du Chaos 7c - Bouligny
• Sur Le fil 7a/6c+ - JA Martin
• Panoramix 7a+ - Cuvier
• Musclor 7a - Buthiers
• Fantasia 6c+/7a - Buthiers
Music:
• The Wombats – Tokyo
• Cat Empire - Shoulders
Coupe du Monde de Munich 2011
Retour sur l'étape de Coupe du Monde de Munich 2011 avec cette vidéo de Nicolas Altmaier des Bouderholics.
After 5
A voir absolument, ces 5 mini-portraits sont très très bien faits.
We did this video to show that there's not only the professional climbers who are dedicated to their sport, but also people like you and me who do some compromises to get to their goals and be as good as they can with their life obligations.
Matrix Revolutions Fb 7C+ First Ascent
Martin fait la FA en Septembre 2009, de Matrix Revolution, 7C+.
Shoshala Trishul direct
Last year (2010), during a bouldering trip, Elie Chevieux found a big wall in Baspa Valley. He decided to go back this year with Giovanni Quirici and Yannick Boissenot to open a new route on this virgin summit : “The Shoshala”.
After 2 months in India, 3 weeks at the base camp with only 3 sunny days, they opened a 2,300-foot route with many pitches in the 7th degree and reached the summit, standing at 15,400 feet.
It was the last expedition of Giovanni Quirici.
Marshall au Bout du Monde
Après une année noire, rien de tel qu'une bonne dose de conti pour se remettre la caisse. Direction le secteur du bout du monde à l'éléphant pour des traversées majeures de 80 mouvements.
Dans l'ordre d'apparition:
- La boucle du déversoir (8A),
- Un "nouveau" jeu "Le déversoir du bout du monde" (8A),
- Le déversoir par le bas en AR (8A+).
Passage en mode lactate
Pour ne pas perdre le bénéfice des séances de conti au bout du monde, direction un secteur isolé de la JA Martin, pour le retour-aller de Samothrace, (ouvert par JP Bouvier) soit environ une quarantaine de mouvements dans les 8A.
AstroBen à Branson
Une après midi incroyable à Branson:
- La jonction 8B,
- La danse des balrogs, 8A+ (version tchèque)
- Chute après le crux dans la danse des balrogs (original), 8B
Fred Nicole
Fred Nicole's lines have inspired thousands and pushed our imaginations to stretch the possible into reality. The first to climb the grades 8b, 8b+ and 8c, he redefined what is possible. His vision and passion are largely responsible for the development of the hardest lines in the best (and best known) areas on Earth, from Magic Wood to Hueco Tanks, to the Rocklands ~Rock and Ice
For more on Fred Nicole visit http://www.prana.com/ambassadors/fred-nicole