Le retour de Bernd Zangerl
Into the Sun from Ray Demski on Vimeo.
489 days after falling from a boulder Bernd Zangerl returns to high level climbing with his first ascent of “Into the Sun”.
A film by Ray Demski - www.raydemski.com
Treasure Island
When James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini get told a story from their good friend Yuji Hirayama of a Japanese island with unclimbed cliffs and beautiful untouched granite, they need little other persuasion to pack their bags and travel from their home in France to the other side of the World.
Finding more than just new lines, they discover an island still trying to recover from the 2011 Earthquake and resulting Tsunami that decimated not just the landscape but the island's economy.
Joining them on the island is Toru Nakajima, no stranger to hard British trad, and between them they go about exploring the bouldering and trad potential and putting up new lines from HVS to E7.
An unknown island no more, Kinkasan offers new trad and bouldering opportunities for those looking for an excuse to travel to new destination.
Seb Bouin: The Silent Crusher
Seb Bouin has climbed 5.15 regularly, often sending routes like Chilam Balam (5.15a/b) while on a short break from his job as a sports teacher in Paris. In this video, he’s trying his next-level project, La Rage d'Adam, at the Verdon Gorge.
The Lappnor Project
Une équipe de production a suivi Nalle Hukkataival depuis ses tous premiers essais dans le bloc, en 2013. Après des heures de travail, de tournage et de montage, la date est enfin connue. Le film complet retraçant l’histoire du premier 9A bloc sera disponible dès le 8 Février 2017à 17h00. Une tournée mondiale sera également organisée à différentes dates.
"Perdu dans la forêt finlandaise, se trouvait un bloc, jamais gravi par aucun Homme, appelé « The Lappnor Project ». Il était considéré comme le bloc le plus dur du monde et peut-être même impossible pour un humain.
Nalle Hukkataival, un fort grimpeur finlandais, a accepté le challenge. Il a fallu près de quatre ans d’engagement total et ses efforts et progrès dans le bloc ont été suivis par des milliers de grimpeurs à travers le monde.
Quand Nalle réussit, il fit trembler le monde de l’escalade comme jamais auparavant: il venait d’enchaîner le premier 9A bloc de l’histoire.
Le documentaire suit le voyage de Nalle dès ses débuts, jusqu’à la première ascension presque une demi-décennie plus tard. Il capture l’incroyable dévouement qui était nécessaire pour traiter toutes les variables et de prendre cette dernière étape comme le prochain niveau d’escalade."
Source Planet Grimpe.
The Lappnor Project - A Documentary About Not Giving Up from Blue Kangoo Films on Vimeo.
In the Finnish forests was an unclimbed route called the Lappnor project. It was considered to be the hardest climbing route in the world and perhaps impossible for a human.
Nalle Hukkataival, a strong Finnish climber took up the challenge. It required almost four years of total commitment and his efforts were followed by hundreds of thousands of climbers around the world.
When Nalle finally succeeded, it blew away the whole climbing world like nothing before. The first 9A boulder was climbed!
The documentary follows Nalle's journey from the very beginning, all the way to the first ascent almost half a decade later. It captures the incredible dedication that was needed to deal with all the variables and to take that last step to open the next level of climbing.
Duration: 34 min
Languages: English and Finnish (subtitled in English)
Website:
The Master Of Moves : Jacky Godoffe
BDTV Episode 6: The Master Of Moves from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.
In the forests of Fontainebleau, the boulders hold some of the most astounding shapes in the world, inspiration to artists and climbers alike. World Cup route setter Jacky Godoffe has been climbing there for decades, and his routes are drawn from the motion of Font. For Jacky, this expression, and sharing it with others, is his happiness.
Read the full story at blackdiamondequipment.com/en/bdtv-episode-6.html
BDTV Episode Six.