A climbing life
A climbing life from H2M images on Vimeo.
L'histoire de Mike Owen, grimpeur anglais passionné expatrié dans le sud est de la France.
Il nous présente son sanctuaire, le secteur Jurassic Park dans les Gorges du Loup.
Pour faire 9a
Treasure Island
When James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini get told a story from their good friend Yuji Hirayama of a Japanese island with unclimbed cliffs and beautiful untouched granite, they need little other persuasion to pack their bags and travel from their home in France to the other side of the World.
Finding more than just new lines, they discover an island still trying to recover from the 2011 Earthquake and resulting Tsunami that decimated not just the landscape but the island's economy.
Joining them on the island is Toru Nakajima, no stranger to hard British trad, and between them they go about exploring the bouldering and trad potential and putting up new lines from HVS to E7.
An unknown island no more, Kinkasan offers new trad and bouldering opportunities for those looking for an excuse to travel to new destination.
Seb Bouin: The Silent Crusher
Seb Bouin has climbed 5.15 regularly, often sending routes like Chilam Balam (5.15a/b) while on a short break from his job as a sports teacher in Paris. In this video, he’s trying his next-level project, La Rage d'Adam, at the Verdon Gorge.
Magnus Midtbø - Jungle Speed 8c+
Magnus Midtbø - Jungle Speed 8c+.mov from MadSkillz Media on Vimeo.
Magnus Midtbø crushes the short and powerful Jungle Speed in Siurana this february (2015).
The intro comments are made by Martin Mobråten who was the first Norwegian to climb the route a few weeks earlier.
The video is from the actual ascent but a few clips are taken from another attempt as I had to change positions.
Camera is as always the Canon 5D Mark II and the lenses used are the 70-200 f2.8 IS II and the 16-35 f2.8 II.
The top part unfortunately got a bit out of focus, the subtitles are not perfect, could not decide on the music, got tired of looking and then just went with this, like it or not, it's free :)
Henning Wang
Madskillzmedia
Alizee Dufraisse in Siurana Spain
French Phenom Alizee Dufraisse climbs with intense passion and loves the physical and mental challenge of climbing at her limit. In Siurana Spain, she lives her dream, with a handful of very hard projects on her 'tick list'. In her words, "A fight is what makes your life".
Learn more about Alizee at http://www.prana.com/life/ambassadors
Change, 9b+
Last summer, Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra made a highly productive trip to Hanshalleren, a massive granite cave outside the small town of Flatanger, Norway. Adam not only made short work of the cave's established hard routes (including onsighting two routes graded 5.14c/8c+), he made the first ascent of Thor's Hammer (5.15a/9a+) and bolted a futuristic project out the steepest section of the cave. On October 4, Adam managed to link this 55-meter-long beast, establishing Change, the world's first route graded 5.15c/9b+. Along with his recent first ascent of La Dura Dura in Oliana, Spain, Change stands as one of, if not the hardest route in the world.
Stella marchisio - Conception
Chris Sharma : Intrinsic
Chris Sharma shares his motivation for climbing and insights gained through struggle and the commitment to his craft. Chris finds ‘purpose’ in his big projects and through the process, has learned when to push and when to let go. With unlimited, steep limestone cliffs near his home in Catalunya, Spain he thrives on the adventure, exploration and discovery of new routes.
Learn more about Chris at Prana.
Adam Ondra - Red River Gorge
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra traveled to Kentucky's Red River Gorge in late October and 10 days later he had blazed through the area's hardest routes, including onsighting two of the Red's hardest, Pure Imagination and The Golden Ticket, in the same day. Both routes were originally rated 5.14d, but Ondra, after onsighting them within an hour of each other, suggested they be downrated to 5.14c. (Yes, the ease of onsighting in the Red is a much discussed topic, but nevertheless onsighting two 5.14c's in the same day is a stunning achievement.) Ben Spannuth was on the scene for Ondra's onsight of The Golden Ticket and got the camera rolling in time to capture the action. Here is the uncut footage. Amazing to see the conviction Ondra has through every sequence—no stalling, no apprehension about sequences, no anxiety, no slip ups. Aspiring onsight climbers take note: this is how you do it. Boom. Boom. Boom. Clip the chains.
Ondra - Flatanger 9b+
Adam Ondra, the best sportsclimber in the word, are visiting Flatanger in Norway. He has created a very hard route, proberly a 9b or 9b+. In this video he's trying to climb the first meters of the 55 meter route. Hanshelleren, the famous Flatanger Cave, has been known as the most spectacular climping destination in Europe, especialy in the sommer as the climat is perfect and the granit in the cave is hard and dry.
The Wizard's Apprentice - Excerpt
What is the best?
The Barti's music...
Or the Adam's vid...
Definitively, both are excellent.
Alizée Dufraisse 8c+/9a
Alizée Dufraisse, who climbed her first 8c+, Pati noso, not long ago, has now pushed it half a notch further by doing La Reina Mora, 8c+/9a, at Siurana. The route is in the same sector, El Pati, as Pati noso, so it would seem this wall suits her quite well! This was of course the first female ascent. There has, after all, not been that many female ascents at this level. So few in fact that you can count the number of women who have climbed anything harder than 8c+ on one hand, even if you were to have lost a digit (or maybe even two). La Reina Mora was originally given 8c/+ by Ramon Julian Puigblanque but has later been upgraded first by Nico Favresse who suggested 8c+ and then by Dani Andrada who thought it was at least 8c+/9a, maybe even 9a.
Dani Andrada : Portrait
"When I was asked to make a video about Dani Andrada, at first I was super psyched and was looking forward to shooting it. Then, I realized that I had never filmed sport climbing, or even taken my camera on a rope (except to film a highball) and that I would not have time to try even once before going there. So I went to Catalunya not knowing what to except and quite nervous about screwing up while on the rope... Now that I am back, I only want to try shooting routes again!
If you are looking for a pure action video, this is not what this is. This is more of a 'video illustrated interview'. If you want to know more about Dani and his motivations, you are at the right place :-)
Dani has a strong reputation and all I can say is that he is as motivated as you would expect him to be. He is either climbing or bolting, or doing both in a day. He just never stops. And on top of that he is a genuine good person spending most of his non climbing time rebolting older routes to keep Siurana safe.
Weather was not kind with us, having fog, rain and very strong winds but it gave us some very intense tries in Siurana (sorry for the shakiness in La Rambla but I could not fight such wind...). And like Dani says, if you can do it in bad conditions, you will feel stronger when conditions get better..."
Haroun Souirji
Superbe vidéo, superbe personnage!
Park Life
Louder Than 11 is proud to present "Park Life - Yosemite Bouldering" coming to the internet, for free, on Monday, January 16 at 9AM Mountain Standard time.
Mark your calendars, grab a snack and sit back for 27 action packed minutes from Yosemite Valley, January 16th.
Starring :
Natasha Barnes, Rich Crowder, Sarah Fullerton, Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman, Ryan Silven, Ben Vernon, Anson Whitmer, Dave Wetmore, Max Zolotukhin.
Directed by :
Rich Crowder, Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman.
Video by :
Rich Crowder, Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman.
Additional Camera Support by :
Ben Vernon
Director of Photography :
Rich Crowder
Edited by :
Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman.
Motion Graphics by :
Jordan Shipman.
Visual Effects by :
Jordan Shipman.
Music Supervision by :
Jon Glassberg
Best Boy Grip :
Ben Vernon.
Special Thanks to :
Urban Climber, Revolution Climbing, Ethan Pringle, Buck Hoover, Chad Wolak, Doug Hartman.
Free. Whether you like it or not.
© 2012 Louder Than 11
A fine line - Chris Sharma
This is a short sample of a video featuring Chris Sharma on Fight or Flight (15b) and a new project near his home in Spain. In the video, Chris speaks about maintaining motivation and peak performance. The full version of this video can be seen exclusively at www.dpmclimbing.com in The Stash.
Un extrait complémentaire du film "A fine line" en cliquant sur "Lire plus"
Lire Plus…
James Pearson Pembrocke
A fantastic video made by Keith Bradbury and filmed for The North Face of James Pearson on his recent epic trip to Pembroke where he obliterated lots of previous highs with a bunch of great ascents culminating in the first E10 ground up.
Sasha DiGiulian "Pure imagination", 9a
On October 15th 2011, Adidas team athlete, Sasha DiGiulian became the first American women to climb the grade 9a (5.14d) with her historic ascent of "Pure Imagination" in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. Keith Ladzinski and Andy Mann (Three Strings Media) were there to capture her efforts and tell her story.