Le retour de Bernd Zangerl
Into the Sun from Ray Demski on Vimeo.
489 days after falling from a boulder Bernd Zangerl returns to high level climbing with his first ascent of “Into the Sun”.
A film by Ray Demski - www.raydemski.com
Treasure Island
When James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini get told a story from their good friend Yuji Hirayama of a Japanese island with unclimbed cliffs and beautiful untouched granite, they need little other persuasion to pack their bags and travel from their home in France to the other side of the World.
Finding more than just new lines, they discover an island still trying to recover from the 2011 Earthquake and resulting Tsunami that decimated not just the landscape but the island's economy.
Joining them on the island is Toru Nakajima, no stranger to hard British trad, and between them they go about exploring the bouldering and trad potential and putting up new lines from HVS to E7.
An unknown island no more, Kinkasan offers new trad and bouldering opportunities for those looking for an excuse to travel to new destination.
The Lappnor Project
Une équipe de production a suivi Nalle Hukkataival depuis ses tous premiers essais dans le bloc, en 2013. Après des heures de travail, de tournage et de montage, la date est enfin connue. Le film complet retraçant l’histoire du premier 9A bloc sera disponible dès le 8 Février 2017à 17h00. Une tournée mondiale sera également organisée à différentes dates.
"Perdu dans la forêt finlandaise, se trouvait un bloc, jamais gravi par aucun Homme, appelé « The Lappnor Project ». Il était considéré comme le bloc le plus dur du monde et peut-être même impossible pour un humain.
Nalle Hukkataival, un fort grimpeur finlandais, a accepté le challenge. Il a fallu près de quatre ans d’engagement total et ses efforts et progrès dans le bloc ont été suivis par des milliers de grimpeurs à travers le monde.
Quand Nalle réussit, il fit trembler le monde de l’escalade comme jamais auparavant: il venait d’enchaîner le premier 9A bloc de l’histoire.
Le documentaire suit le voyage de Nalle dès ses débuts, jusqu’à la première ascension presque une demi-décennie plus tard. Il capture l’incroyable dévouement qui était nécessaire pour traiter toutes les variables et de prendre cette dernière étape comme le prochain niveau d’escalade."
Source Planet Grimpe.
The Lappnor Project - A Documentary About Not Giving Up from Blue Kangoo Films on Vimeo.
In the Finnish forests was an unclimbed route called the Lappnor project. It was considered to be the hardest climbing route in the world and perhaps impossible for a human.
Nalle Hukkataival, a strong Finnish climber took up the challenge. It required almost four years of total commitment and his efforts were followed by hundreds of thousands of climbers around the world.
When Nalle finally succeeded, it blew away the whole climbing world like nothing before. The first 9A boulder was climbed!
The documentary follows Nalle's journey from the very beginning, all the way to the first ascent almost half a decade later. It captures the incredible dedication that was needed to deal with all the variables and to take that last step to open the next level of climbing.
Duration: 34 min
Languages: English and Finnish (subtitled in English)
Website:
The Master Of Moves : Jacky Godoffe
BDTV Episode 6: The Master Of Moves from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.
In the forests of Fontainebleau, the boulders hold some of the most astounding shapes in the world, inspiration to artists and climbers alike. World Cup route setter Jacky Godoffe has been climbing there for decades, and his routes are drawn from the motion of Font. For Jacky, this expression, and sharing it with others, is his happiness.
Read the full story at blackdiamondequipment.com/en/bdtv-episode-6.html
BDTV Episode Six.
La Sportiva Legends Only 2016
The 6th edition of La Sportiva Legends Only
Line up :
Jongwon Chon, KOR, 4th IFSC WC 2016
Rustam Gelmanov, RUS, 5th IFSC WC 2016
Kokoro Fujii, JAP, 2nd IFSC WC 2016
Alexander Megos, GER, 2nd La Sportiva Legends Only 2014
Jimmy Webb, USA 1st La Sportiva Legends Only 2013
Special guest :
Jerry Moffatt, Legend.
Daniel Woods Climbs V16 : The process
Here is an edit I did for rock climbing filmmaker Josh Lowell.
‘New Beginnings’ - Rocklands, South Africa 2016
'New Beginnings' - Rocklands, South Africa 2016 from Derw Fineron on Vimeo.
Psyched to share with you all my first bouldering video from our time out in Rocklands, South Africa. This was one of the best periods in my life with amazing climbing and people! Hope to see the same faces next year! Blog post to follow.
Climbers in order of appearance: Derw Fineron, Hannah Smith, Chris Smallwood and Harrison Buchanan.
Music:
Vok - 'Waterfall'
Vok - 'Waiting'
Vok - 'Before'
Kidwaste - 'Underwater'
Nos voisins Luxembourgeois à Bleau
This is part 2 of "Lifestyle FONTAINEBLEAU". This video is about bouldering in Fontainebleau and the lifestyle climbers lead when they hang around in their favorite forest to solve boulder problems. The boulders were filmed from November 2014 to July 2016 together with, Yves Schartz, Pierre Goerens, Olivier Groff, Eric Dimmer, Ewa Kowoll and Nicole Schartz. ... Don't miss the outtakes after the credits :) Enjoy!
Hueco Rock Rodeo - 2016
23rd HRR results :
Women's Open
1) Alex Puccio - 6510 pts.
2) Jule Wurm - 5005 pts.
3) Akiyo Noguchi - 3160 pts.
Men's Open
1) Jakob Schubert - 7710 pts.
2) Jan Hojer - 7290 pts
3) Sam Davis - 6960 pts.
Kevin Lopata dans Mécanique Elémentaire
Mécanique élémentaire 8b+ from kevin LOPATA on Vimeo.
Kevin Lopata dans Mécanique élémentaire 8b+ à FontainebleauLa Fonte
La fonte from Le Fred on Vimeo.
Des connus et d'autres moins, certains hauts...que du joli de mon point de vue:
- Iceberg raccourci assis, 7b+/c
- Le surplomb feuilleté gauche, 7a (manque le début sur la vidéo mais Vito l'a bien torché)
- Deimos, 7a
- Strate eau sphère, 7b+/c (peut-être 7b)
- Chicken skin assis, 7a/6c (7a je pense, du cinq star!)
- Ok corral, 7a
- La barre fixe, 7b+
- La coulée verte, 7a
- Psychotrope, 7a/+
- Célinette, 7a (Ju l'a torché aussi, désolé gars pas assez de lumière ce coup-ci)
- Toiles de maîtres, 7a+ (comme son nom l'indique)
- Le royaume des saucisses, 7b/+
- Sérénité, 7b (après avoir flashé son voisin de droite, mais plus de batterie pour filmer)
Slow Moments - 2015 - Bouldering World Cup
Slow Moments - 2015 GoPro Mountain Games - Bouldering World Cup from Louder Than Eleven on Vimeo.
June 6th, 2015 the Bouldering World Cup made it's way to Vail, Colorado. The GoPro Mountain Games provided a high alpine venue for the worlds best boulderers to show off their skills. Louder Than Eleven was on hand to capture some rare slow motion moments that are easily overlooked. Please enjoy our interpretation of high end competition rock climbing in the 2015 edition of Slow Moments.
Les quatre saisons à Bleau
2 ans de bloc à Bleau avec Seb frigault et Mounir Farhat, membres de la Team S'cape de Fontainebleau
des instants capturés au plus près des grimpeurs, de la joie, de la rage, du rire ...
des ouvertures
des répétitions
des blocs faciles, des durs mais surtout hors des sentiers battus
Si vous utilisez la magnésie, faites comme nous, nettoyez vos traits, les prises et nettoyez à l'eau en quittant votre bloc !
Grimpez les pieds propres, on n'est pas en salle !!
Prochaine saison à venir ...
Joe Kinder: 30 Days in Norway
Joe Kinder: 30 Days in Norway from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.
Joe Kinder: 30 Days in Norway Part II from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.
Bleau autrement par Neil
First few days with the inspire from neil hart on Vimeo.
Most people have done first flight videos with this amazing new machine, I thought I would do first few days with it,
The flying is amazing, there are no post stabalizing on this video, the craft is so smooth, One thing I did play with was the camera settings just to see what cababilities it has, with and without filters, you will see the difference on certain shots, Personaly, I think the best image comes out of the 1080p setting and not the 4k mode, Whatever you do, do not use vivid profile in 4k around trees its horrible, you will see in this video,
But as for a drone, its amazing, set up in seconds and in the air just as fast, I did change the gains to make it smoother and more responsive, ( but please do not do this unless you know what you are doing )
I have to see im still chicken to use the auto take of and land, but who needs it anyway, its a dodle to fly, enjoy
For a good all round all shot machine you cant go wrong, but I will still use my S900 for those great shots needed
IFSC Worldchampionship Bouldern Munich 2014 Final Highlights
Quick´n´Dirty Edit of the Finals round from saturday 23/8/2014 at Munich Olympiastadium - IFSC Worldchampionship Bouldern Munich 2014
Filmed by Udini, Antigravityphysio & Beta Routesetting.
Slow Moments - World cup
June 7th, 2014 the Bouldering World Cup made it to Vail, Colorado. The GoPro Mountain Games provided a high alpine venue for the worlds best boulderers to show off their skills. Louder Than Eleven was on hand to capture some rare slow motion moments. Please enjoy high end competition rock climbing at 240 frames per second.
Video and Edit - Jon Glassberg
Europe Trip 2014 - Jimmy Webb
So this is just part 1 of a 3 part series highlighting my trip spent in Europe this spring. Nothing special really. Just tons of climbing. Climbers include: Kasia Pietras, Arjan De Kock, and Jimmy Webb. Enjoy!
Fontainebleau - Iker Arroitajauregi
Vous avez la possibilité de faire un don à Iker pour cette vidéo en allant directement sur "Vimeo".
Si te ha gustado el video, hay una opcion para darme una propina... para poder seguir escalando y editando videos, gracias!
- Il Était une Fois Bleau 8a
- Realist 8a
- Karma 8a+
- Bleu Sacré 8a+/b
- La Théorie des Jeux 8b
- Le Tajine 8b
- Mustur 8a+ F.A.
- L´Arete de Boissy assis 8b+
- Le Surplomb de la Mée assis 8b+
- Jour de Chasse 8c
Bloc Pfalz
check out www.oldschool-rocks.blogspot.com
Ein fetter Tag in der Pfalz mit Gregor und Alex
Pimp Legionär 8A
Lord Nelson 7C
Für die dies genau wissen wollen. Checkt www.oldschool-rocks.blogspot.com
Bloc en Galice
You can buy the full 71-minute film here:
reelhouse.org/finisterre/finisterre
Mens is one of the most accessible areas in Galicia. Perfect rock quality and awesome lines, all surrounded by the Atlantic ocean. Join Angus, as he reminisces about the early days of bouldering in Galicia and his first encounter with Ben de Corme.
Spectre V14
Carlo Traversi makes an ascent of Spectre V14 in Bishop, CA. Filmed by Mary Mecklenburg. Special Thanks to adidas Outdoor, Five Ten, Revolution Climbing, and Skratch Labs.
Trèves 2013
This is a video about the 21st edition of the legendary Ex-Haus Cup in Trier / Germany (23rd November 2013). As Christoph Gabrysch (german climber, trainer and competition climber) wrote in an article on his blog (http://christoph-gabrysch.tumblr.com): The Ex-Cup is known for its really hard and badass boulderproblems and thus you could hear more than one time the slogan of the evening "Presents are for Christmas" from the grinning routesetters. ... The Ex-Haus is the birthplace of the german bouldercups. This year's slogan: Horror in the Attic ... Spooky boulders since 1992 ! Enjoy ...
Sisu Masters 2013
Sisu Masters 2013 is the biggest climbing event ever in Finland. Meet the competitors and get a sneek peak at the venue!
Nalle - La force tranquille V15
Nalle Hukkataival making the first repeat of Daniel Woods' La Force Tranquille V15 in Magic Wood, Switzerland.
Boulderholics Trips
Zusammenschnitt quer durch die Zeit und Europa von verschiedenen Boulderholics-Trips
Out of Sight
A Film by Neil Hart.
Fontainebleau is one of the most popular climbing destination on the planet, with thousands of boulders spread over hundreds of areas. From he classic areas of the Franchard and Cuvier to the less know areas of Buthiers and JA Martin.
Come follow a group of the worlds best climbers as they explore the most hidden beautiful boulders of this enchanted forest. They will take you on a journey to parts of the forest you have never heard off and boulders you have never seen, Not only that but boulders just of the paths in the main areas that are so beautiful but seldom climbed.
Produced and directed by Neil Hart.
Location, Hidden Fontainebleau.
Climbers, Nalle Hukkataival, Chris Schulte, Nico Favresse, Jacky Godoffe, Jo Montchaussé, Simon (kook) Newstead, Olivier Lebreton, Daniel Olausson, Barnaby Ventham, Glairon Mondet Guillaume.
Support from, BLACK DIAMOND, I LOVE CLIMBING, MAISONBLEAU and I-BBZ.
Otoño en Albarracín
A short film about our bouldering trip to Albarracín, Spain in October 2012. This is just a small selection of some of the amazing problems we tried during the week we spent in this amazing and beautiful location. Including: 'Techo Del Pepo' (7A), 'Minivarano' (6A), 'Txanquito' (6C), 'Spider Pig' (6C) and many more!
Filmed by:
Ben Grubb
Ben Sales
Snooky Grubb
Ceri Lewis
Edited by:
Ben Grubb
Ben Sales
Camera:
Canon EOS 7D
Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM
Hardware:
27” Apple iMac
Software:
Adobe Premiere CS6
Adobe After Effects CS6
Music:
Alt-J - 'Intro'
Miike Snow - 'Paddling Out'
Alice Russell - 'Humankind'
Sporto Kantès - 'Whistle'
Brad Sucks - 'Making Me Nervous'
Gramatik - 'Hit That Jive'
Please visit:
www.norop.es
www.bengrubb.co.uk
http://usa.twoism.co.uk
Pena Corneira
Inhale.Exhale
This video is a very personal retrospection with some insights and thoughts on my passion for the last years: Highballing.
The Traphouse, 8B+, et plus!!
Guillaume GLAIRON MONDET climbing in Font with good friction again.
Guillaume GLAIRON MONDET grimpe à Fontainebleau avec la collante.
List of the problems :
The Traphouse, 8B/+, Cuvier Rempart
L'apparement bas, 8B, Envers d'Apremont
La directe du surplomb de la Mée assis, 8B, Potala
Musique : Promoe - Headache
The Big Island
Jan Hojer climbing the Big Island 8C in Coquibus Rumont
Music: "Edgar Wallis - (the Answer) it was good" for free download and more Music visit soundcloud.com/edgarwallis
Bart van Raaij - Symbiose gauche 7C
Bart van Raaij, author of the greatly appreciated guidebooks "Straight ups in Fontainebleau" (5+6 and 7+8), climbing Symbiose gauche in 95.2.
Featured problem:
Symbiose gauche 7C - 95.2 (Fontainebleau)
Climber in video:
Bart van Raaij
Edit:
Daniel Olausson
Camera:
Daniel Olausson
Visit:
Bouldersgate.blogspot.com
In association with:
www.Tierra.se
www.Fiveten.com
www.TheGeckoworld.com
The Schedule - A Bouldering Short
Join Hedi and Andi on their Boulder Schedule as they climb in the "Bucklige Welt" in the Eastern part of Austria.
Filmed, Produced and Edited by David Schickengruber
Climbers
Hedi Friedl
Andi Matuska
The Big Island.
Guillaume GLAIRON MONDET dans l'enchaînement "The Big Island", 8C au secteur Coquibus Rumont, Fontainebleau.
Stella marchisio - Conception
Blocz.
Pour vous faire patienter et en attendant la sortie du film, voici en cadeau de Noël le dernier trailer de Blocz.
Classe Tous Risques 8B
Le Son du Poète 8B
Le Feu Sans Flammes (First Ascent) 8A+
...
et bien d'autres blocs de haut niveau vous attendent dans la version finale de ce film.
www.facebook.com/blocz
Musique:
Space Cadet - Kyuss
Screaming Eagle
Forest Land.
The route-setting crew from Brooklyn Boulders travels across the country to sample the exquisite granite of the Pacific Northwest. Areas visited include Goldbar and Leavenworth, WA as well as Squamish, BC.
A Brooklyn Boulders Film
Produced by Louder Than 11
Facebook.com/BKBoulders
BrooklynBoulders.com
Music:
Pictureplane – “Closer Now”, “Cyclical Cyclical”, “Touching Transform”, “Real is a Feeling”
soundcloud.com/pictureplane
Grandchildren – “Saturn Returns”
www.facebook.com/grandchildrenmusic
twitter.com/Grandchildren10
grandchildren.bandcamp.com
Still Weavens – “Sober”, “The Most”
stillweavens.bandcamp.com
Hot Sugar – “Fuckable”, “Violence”
http://hotsugar.bandcamp.com/
Sponsors:
Brooklyn Boulders
La Sportiva
5.10
Another week in Albarracin.
During the first week of November I went back to Albarracin with Neil and his son Thomas. We got five days climbing in good conditions, before a nasty rainweather rolled in and made us head back to Font a couple of days earlier than planned.
We decided in the car on the way down that we would try to film eachother as much as possible, something Neil stuck to and I didn't. The outcome of it all was me having loads of awesome footage of me climbing to use for this edit. All thanks to Neil, who also did allot of climbing, but without getting as much caught on camera for his video (Once again, sorry mate!)...
Featured problems:
Avalancha 7B - Mezquita/Colmenas
Thieves 7B+ - Psicokiller
Los Titiriteros 7A - Arrastradero
ACA-B8-L4 7B - Acantilados
Zarzamora 7C+ - Parking/Aeroline
La Sportiva Legends Only 2 - Backstage
What do you need to make the best cilmbing event of the year ?
Take the best climbers, the best route setters, the best wall, holds, a warm crowd and some cold beers !
Make sure to check out what happened the day before and the hours after the competition, it's in there, waiting for you, with some action shots, exclusive interviews, and the first ever proof of a one arm pullup by Adam Ondra.
Music : Jean-Charles Lombard - Balkanic Marimba
Graphics : William Ugarte
Another Day in Ticino
September, Daniel and I headed down to Ticino for a days climbing, after a 9 hour drive, 3 hours of sleep we were ready, that was Daniel was ready as he slept all the way there, i was knackered as I drove all the way through the night, after one route I just wanted to sleep :)
Maybe next time I will go for more than just the day
Enjoy...............
Filmed and Edit: Neil Hart
Filmed on Canon 7d with 17-85mm
Routes,
Molunk 7c Brione
Autopilot 7b+ Chironico
Bach Block 7b+ Brione
Rockland - Mélissa Le Nevé
"Some places are nice to visit and some places just make you feel like the luckiest person in the world. This is what we felt during our trip to Rocklands.
So does Rocklands live up to its hype? Yes, it does. But it's not only about the climbing. It's the whole experience (scenery, people, rock...) that makes the area what it is. We hope this video gives you a genuine image of Rocklands.
This video was shot during June 2012 and it was Mélissa Le Nevé's second trip to Rocklands. Needless to say it will not be her last!"
- Haroun Souirji
Bloc en Autriche
The Passion is a boulderingfim including three different crags in Austria. The Zillertal, the Felbertal and the Silvapark near Galtür.
It shows ascents of:
Pitbull 8A (V11), Spirit 8A+ (V12), Pressure Drop 8A, Electra Extension 7C (V9), Bad Chemnist 7C+ (V10), Unterholz8 8A, Milewskycrack 7C+, The Super Tera-O-Mega Project 8A+, The Riddler 8A+/B (V12/13), Clockwork Orange 7C+/8A (V10/11), Incubator 8A+/B in the Zillertal.
Libre soft 7C+, Twisted Moonlight 8A, Defender of faith 7C+/8A in the Felbertal.
And Pretty Belinda 8A+ trav., Zwiederwurzn 8A in the Silvapark.
Our goal is to share our motivation for bouldering outdoors. We guess it is the best thing that climbing offers and hopefully some of you will try it for the first time after watching the film. But remember that keeping the nature clean is very important cause we all do not want to annoy other climbers and residents.
Thanks for watching. Keep on crushing and we are always happy about feedback.
Eddy fait le "Cri du lézard".
"Blood Redemption", 8C
Magnus Midtbø opening the hardest boulder in Norway on the legendary Gjeddehenget boulder of Matre, Norway. Magnus proposed the grade 8C. Adam Ondra has repeated it, but with a different start and gave it a personal grade of 8B+.
Trailer : Western Gold
Join Savage Films on an adventure in search of the best highball boulders on the west coast of North America. Western Gold will introduce you to the tallest, hardest, most aesthetic lines that the west coast has to offer - and all of it off the beaten path. Artistic filming captures the beauty of desert bouldering in Red Rocks Nevada, small mountain towns like Leavenworth Washington and Squamish British Columbia, and the simplicity of Cody Wyoming and Castle Rocks Idaho. Western Gold provides an authentic view of the bouldering experience from trials of pushing the limits to the psych of topping out a boulder. This is the true bouldering experience. This is why you boulder.
The Story of Two Worlds low start.
Dai Koyamada's "The Story of Two Worlds low start V16" which he made ascent on 22 March 2012.
Be a witness! Don't miss Dai Koyamada's latest documentary. Check it out!
Blocs Suisse
Petite vidéo sur les sites de Brione, Cresciano, et MagicWood.
Certains blocs ont été enchaînés le week-end passe, d'autre sont d'autre week-end de 2012.
Listes des blocs:
Molunk 7c
Cellar Door 8a
Octopussy 8a
The Right Hand of Darkness 8a
Balu der Bar 7c
Jungle Book 7c+
La Boule 8a
La Grotte des Soupirs 7c+
Fake Pamplemousse 8a
Et deux essais flash mémorable dans Dreamtime et Big Paw!
The Wizard's Apprentice - Excerpt
What is the best?
The Barti's music...
Or the Adam's vid...
Definitively, both are excellent.
Paul Robinson à Albarracin
Paul Robinson continues his bouldering mission around the world, this time stopping off in Albarracin, Spain. During his quick visit, Robinson repeated numerous high-end classics, as well as established a new problem, Helicopterz On Beachez (8B+) that is one of the area's most difficult.
Varazze par Haroun Souirji
A bouldering short with Boreal athletes Julia Winter and Robert Leistner. Varazze - Italy - is a small town facing the sea, like many on the coast of Liguria. What makes it special is all the small bouldering areas next to it. Varazze recently got in the news because of "Gioia". But there are many other quality lines there.
With this video, I wanted to go for something simple yet a little more abstract than the usual. I wanted to let the footage prevail on the text and decided not to put the grades in the video. But here is the detail of the boulders and grades for those interested:
Nebulosa 7C // Adam's Sleep 7B+ // Messa Delle Streghe 7C // Excalibur Stand 7C // Ciucciati Il Calzino 7B+ // Chiavi Del Regno 7B // Unknown 7A
I hope you enjoy the video!
Music credits at the end of the video.
Scarred for Life - Trailer
Scarred for Life - The Life and Climbs of Dave Graham.
This is the unofficial preview trailer for the upcoming feature release.
We are still a ways off of finishing but this should give you an idea of what we've been up to.
We will release it as soon as it's finished.
Until then check Achromatic Digital Cinema or the blog for additional content as we get closer to completion.
Daniel Woods Life
At the 2012 Hueco Rock Rodeo Daniel Woods had the best day of bouldering in his life. He was able to climb 76 v-points in 6 boulders.
Nagual (v13)
The Machinist (v14)
Crook by the Book (V14)
Phantom Limb V12)
Full Monty (V12)
Two Days With Gene (V11)
2012 ABS Nationals Hommes et Femmes
North America's strongmen converged on Colorado Springs on Feb 24-25, 2012 for ABS Nationals 13. The field of 61 athletes was whittled down to just 6 for Men's Finals. When the dust settled Daniel Woods proved once again that he is simply the best climber in the U.S.
Results:
1. Daniel Woods
2. Ethan Pringle
3. Michael Bautista
4. Carlo Traversi
5. Jon Cardwell
6. Austin Geiman.
Welcome to the official highlights from the Womens 2012 American Bouldering Series National Championships.
Results:
1st - Alex Puccio
2nd - Angie Payne
3rd - Shauna Coxsey
4th - Lizzy Asher
5th - Alex Johnson
6th - Sasha Digiulian
7th - Sierra Blair-Coyle
Guillaume Glairon-Mondet by Marshall
Quelques classiques du Bas-cuvier par Guigui:
- Hypothèse (7C+), version Pan Gullich
- Apothéose (7C+), flash
- Combi Berezina-Carnage assis (8A) juste après le flash de la Berezina assis.
Si j'avais été plus rapide pour sortir ma cam, il y aurait eu (toujours dans la même journée) : Infidèle (flash), Contrôle technique, L'aérodynamite assis et pour finir l'Aérosol...
PS: Guigui, tu me fatigues!!!! ;-)
Grosses croix à Bleau
Nalle Hukkataival Australie : Vidéos
Black Diamond athlete Nalle Hukkataival spent most of September 2011 down in Australia, climbing on the beautiful and bullet stone of the Grampians. We had Keith Ladzinski on the scene to capture the action and he came back with gigs of quality footage—so many gigs of footy that it took he and his partner at Three Strings Media, Andy Mann, until now to work through the goods. But the wait was worth it as you see Nalle nailing down FAs and classic boulders, as well as even tying into a rope (no one can resist the call of the stunning Taipan Wall!).
Nalle Hukkataival à Bleau : Vidéos
Black Diamond athlete Nalle Hukkataival ventured to the iconic blocs of Fontainebleau, France in early 2011 and pulled off a string of impressive ascents during his stay. Here is a highlight reel filmed and edited by Alvi Pakarinen that brilliantly captures Nalle sending Karma (8A+), Elephunk (8B), L'Apparemment (8B), the stunning dyno of Rainbow Rocket (8A)—to name just a few. After all of Nalle's masterful sendage, you'll want to watch the last 2:30 of the video were Nalle (jacked ankle and all) endures failure after failure after failure on La Puce, a one-move-wonder 8A dyno that has him ass-stacking over and over again until, well... watch for yourself and enjoy.
Nalle Hukkataival à Bleau
Hier, le 04 février, Nalle croite la FA de "Realist",8B+, passage brossé par ses soins ainsi que "Gecko assis", 8B+!!!
Parlant de "Realist" Nalle n'arrive pas à croire qu'il est encore possible de trouver de tel passage en forêt de Fontainebleau. Ce passage est un mix entre les plats de Bleau et les réglettes de Chironico.
(Source : 27 Crags)
Nalle Hukkataival fait la FA de "Realist".
Photo coll. N. Hukkataival.
Adam Ondra à Bleau 3 - Gecko
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his five-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam.
Here is Video #3 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and this one capture‘s Adam's flash of Gekko Assis (8B+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.
Adam wrote the following about the moments captured in Video #3:
"After restday, we woke up into still and foggy conditions, but it was obvious that the fog must diminish soon and the sun will show up on the sky. Warm up in Bas Cuvier was an incredible joy, doing the first 6A (Marie Rose) and 7A (Joker) in a sunny morning was a true pleasure. Kheops assis was ticked off in a couple of tries. I went to L'Apparemment low start, an 8B in Apremont sector. This is truly incredible problem with insane typical-Font topoput. I had some problems, especially wet footholds at the beginning, but after an hour it was done. Just next to it, there was one more 8B, La pierre philosophale by Fred Nicole. A roof with hard fingerlocks, it was too much for the end of the day, Jacky was true claiming that this is one of the hardest roofs in Font.
One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions).
The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment.
Concrening the grade I am not very sure, I would love to claim that I flashed an 8B+, but I am awkward to admit that I could climb that well. Considering the effort and how (not) fresh I felt, I can't agree with 8B+, at least for my height. Or was I really in such a good shape, especially when all the other repetitions had confirmed the grade of 8B+? I wish I were, but my own subjective feeling tells me something else.
The rest of the day we spent in Cuisiniere, where I had to climb Karma, the world-famous 8A. And despite humidity, mission completed. Duel, another famous 8A, seemed like an ideal end of the year, but I had to admit defeat in that humidity. Doesn't matter, the year 2011 was successful enough to make me feel satisfied and this trip will be definitely immense source of motivation for the next year.
Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited."
Memory is Parallax V14 FA
Follow Dave Graham and others as they try this crimping masterpiece located just outside RMNP in Colorado. All music mixed by Dave Graham except for the second track (martyparty). Check out www.BearCamMedia.com for more.
Adam Ondra à Bleau 2
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his five-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam, including his stunning flash of Gekko Assis (8b+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.
Here is Video #2 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and follows Adam as he boulders with one of the forest's true maestros, Jacky Godoffe (who is also a BD athlete). Jacky took Adam on a proper tour of some classics, including La Merveille (8A+) and C'etait Demain (8A, the first of its grade in the forest and FA'd by Jacky).
If you missed Video #1, watch it here: http://vimeo.com/35171521
Stay tuned for Video #3 (which has the Gekko Assis flash footage).
Adam wrote the following about the moments captured in Video #2:
"We went to Bas Cuvier parking where we had a meeting with the man of the forest: Jacky Godoffe. It was very inspiring to see him bouldering, being as psyched as ever even after so many years in the forest. I wanted to do some real classic and that is definitely La Merveille (8A). This is amazing prow with the high, but safe crux on the top. Jacky gave me some good beta and I flashed it! Funny thing was that when I latched the lip, I got just slopper a couple centimeters below the real jug and hung there for a second, having no clue what to do or if I was about to fall. From the ground, I might have seemed pretty relaxed and I heard Jacky as a spotter saying OK and going away. In that moment I squealed a desperate “No!“ and I felt that my spotter returned and I could stabilize myself again to do a final bump into the real jug. The end of the day was spent by trying C'etait Demain, the first 8A in the forest in 1984 and also established by Jacky. This was a hard one, and I spent about 20 tries on it, trying and trying again and getting desperately close to doing these two crux moves. Jacky tried with me and we had a plenty of fun, laughing at the precision and coordination this problem requires. In the end, I made it up this blank overhanging wall."
L'ultimo dei Moicani, 8B+
Quick editing of last year's footage of L'Ultimo dei Moicani, 8b+(?!) at Monte Amiata... for sending the bouder I had to wait one year more and spend there over 2 months across Christmas time!
New video with more footage coming out soon inside the longer Monte Amiata presentation video... stay tuned!
Life on hold - Trailer 2
Life on Hold is a new UK bouldering film from Outcrop Films. It follows Britain's top climbers and visiting stars around the UK, tackling some of the highest and hardest problems around. From the tough, mentally challenging highballs on the gritstone edges, to the short, powerful, esoteric testpieces of the limestone and everything in between. We've filmed the new emerging scene of strong boulderers and their tour around Britain's finest.
Featuring: Ned Feehally, Micky Page, Dan Varian, Chris Webb-Parsons, Michele Caminati, Shauna Coxsey, David Mason, Alex Puccio, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Jon Partridge, Martin Smith, Ryan Pasquill, Ben Thompson.
In association with Five Ten and Arc'teryx. With support from The Climbing Works, Wild Country, Tip Juice and Beastmaker.
See 30 minutes of the film before anyone else at SHAFF!
http://www.shaff.co.uk/
Upcoming UK premieres to be announced
Music: Outro by M83
Adam Ondra à Bleau
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his four-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam, including his stunning flash of Gekko Assis (8b+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.
Below is Video #1 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and follows Adam on his first couple of days in the forest as he discovers just how tricky and fickle Font climbing can be. Adam, though, is not one to get pushed around for too long and he quickly comes to form and rails off a series of 8A+ and 8Bs, including Sideways Daze (8B), Fata Morgana Bas (8A+, flash), Satan l'Helvéte (8B).
Check back soon for Videos #2 and #3 from Adam's historic visit to Fontainebleau.
Park Life
Louder Than 11 is proud to present "Park Life - Yosemite Bouldering" coming to the internet, for free, on Monday, January 16 at 9AM Mountain Standard time.
Mark your calendars, grab a snack and sit back for 27 action packed minutes from Yosemite Valley, January 16th.
Starring :
Natasha Barnes, Rich Crowder, Sarah Fullerton, Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman, Ryan Silven, Ben Vernon, Anson Whitmer, Dave Wetmore, Max Zolotukhin.
Directed by :
Rich Crowder, Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman.
Video by :
Rich Crowder, Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman.
Additional Camera Support by :
Ben Vernon
Director of Photography :
Rich Crowder
Edited by :
Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman.
Motion Graphics by :
Jordan Shipman.
Visual Effects by :
Jordan Shipman.
Music Supervision by :
Jon Glassberg
Best Boy Grip :
Ben Vernon.
Special Thanks to :
Urban Climber, Revolution Climbing, Ethan Pringle, Buck Hoover, Chad Wolak, Doug Hartman.
Free. Whether you like it or not.
© 2012 Louder Than 11
Saint Just
Entre les séances de muscu et d'électro, Marshall et Astroben s'offrent un p'tit bol d'air à St Just pour profiter de l'air frais du Cantal. L'occasion de refaire la superbe proue de Pounty street (7B+) et d'ouvrir pour Astroben sa variante sans l'arête de droite, Bounty street (7C).
En tout cas, un p'tit site qui mérite largement l'arrêt pour qui traverse le Cantal et estime avoir trop de peau sur les doigts...
A fine line - Chris Sharma
This is a short sample of a video featuring Chris Sharma on Fight or Flight (15b) and a new project near his home in Spain. In the video, Chris speaks about maintaining motivation and peak performance. The full version of this video can be seen exclusively at www.dpmclimbing.com in The Stash.
Un extrait complémentaire du film "A fine line" en cliquant sur "Lire plus"
Lire Plus…
Bleau, Sideways Daze, 8B
Pour son birthday, Guigui passe (de peu) à côté du flash de Sideways Daze (8B) au Cuvier Rempart mais se rattrape en l'expédiant quelques minutes après...
Un beau cadeau d'anniv qui ferait plaisir à bien des grimpeurs!
Une vidéo signée Marshall.
Legends Only 2011
On demand, here's an even shorter version of the La Sportiva Legends Only comp that took place at Klättercentret Telefonplan in october.
Un résumé de 12 minutes est disponible en cliquant sur "Lire plus"...
Lire Plus…
Adam Ondra - First 8C Boulders
Adam Ondra climbed his first two 8C boulders in November 2010 in Ticino, Switzerland.
BIG PAW - 8B+/C
FROM DIRT GROW THE FLOWERS - 8C
This small video is small Christmas present form "BERNARTWOOD studio" to all climbers. These 2 boulders did not find its place in the final movie about Adam. They were planned to be on the DVD in EXTRAS. But yesterday, I decided to edit it a bit and give it to everybody...
Sorry for the "big" movie about Adam taking so long, it was incredibly hard work, mainly mental, but it is finished, and prepared for delivering. We would like to put it out as a HD DOWNLOAD on December 31st, if all technical aspects will be OK.
DVD with really rich extras will follow in January.
All the important info (length, formats, prices, film tour etc) will appear after December 26th on WWW.ADAMONDRAFILM.COM
Have a nice and quiet non-consume winter time...
Petr Pavlíček - author of the movie.
The Mark of the Beast
One lone man in the middle of the desert does the impossible and turns back the hands of time. After a five year hiatus from the bouldering mecca of Hueco Tanks, Texas. Jay Bone returns to try and prove himself on the stone that made him the man he is today. His inner struggle is only half the battle as he try's to earn the Mark of the Beast, with his trusty sidekick Flash at his side.
Une vidéo CryptoChild par Jason Kehl.
Straight Out of Africa
Brian Antheunisse, Scott Cory, Rob D'Anastasio and Dave Wetmore travel to Rocklands, South Africa on a bouldering safari. Follow the crew as they climb over 20 boulders from 7B to 8B, narrowly avoid being eaten by lions and all to a 1980's soundtrack!
Boulders included :
Amphitheatre (8A+)
Au Bour d'Leau (8A)
Black Mango Chutney (7C+)
Black Shadow (8A+)
Black Velvet (8A)
Cedar Spine (7C)
Gliding Through Waves Like Dolphins (8A)
Golden Virginia (8A)
Green Mamba (8A)
Hole in One (7C+)
Last Day In Paradise (7C+)
Mooiste Meise (8B)
Nutsa (8A)
Oral Office (8A+)
Paula Abdul (7C+)
Pinotage (7C+)
Power of One (8B)
Roadcrew Arete (7B)
Royksopp (8A)
Shosholoza (8A+)
Solar Power (7C+/8A)
The Vice (8B)
Witness the Sickness (8A)
© Louder Than 11
lt11.com
Adam Ondra à Bleau
Article extrait de Kairn.com
Par Pierre Délas - Kairn.com / crédit photos : Lukas Vancura et Pierre Délas
Lire Plus…
Life on Hold
Ned Feehally attempts Samson at Burbage South in the Peak District. A preview from our upcoming film "Life On Hold"
PS : Ce bloc est taillé pour Hans : y'a un pied bien haut!
Neil Dose de Novembre 2011
November Dose for you all to enjoy, this month there has a been lots of discussions on the forums about ethics in bleau, and the way chalk and pads have been misused, my videos taking the brunt of it all. I tried not to get involved but personal attacks made it hard not to.
Basically it boils down to some simple facts, people putting tick marks all over the blocs and not cleaning them off after climbing, also stacking pads to start routes.
So please respect the forest, and leave it the way you found it, if you see tick marks on boulders please try and clean then off.
Bouldering is becoming very popular and the forest has seen more climbers than ever this year and it is only going to get worse. We need to enjoy the forest and preserve it for future generation so please read this and enjoy the forest.
• Clean off your tick marks
• Don’t misuse chalk
• Take your litter home
• Dig a hole for the toilet
• Don’t chip the rocks
• Respect others around you
• But most of all, respect the forest
So that said, back to the climbing, the conditions have been great in the forest this month, but I have not, 2 weeks off with man flu :) but some great climbs none the less, I think its going to be a good winter.
The climbs:
• Kendo 7c - Mont Pivot
• Le Toit du ninja blanc 7a - JA Martin
• La Mouche 7a - Beauvais
• Nature 7c+ - Cuvier
• Le Chavaliers du Chaos 7c - Bouligny
• Sur Le fil 7a/6c+ - JA Martin
• Panoramix 7a+ - Cuvier
• Musclor 7a - Buthiers
• Fantasia 6c+/7a - Buthiers
Music:
• The Wombats – Tokyo
• Cat Empire - Shoulders
After 5
A voir absolument, ces 5 mini-portraits sont très très bien faits.
We did this video to show that there's not only the professional climbers who are dedicated to their sport, but also people like you and me who do some compromises to get to their goals and be as good as they can with their life obligations.
Matrix Revolutions Fb 7C+ First Ascent
Martin fait la FA en Septembre 2009, de Matrix Revolution, 7C+.
Fred Nicole
Fred Nicole's lines have inspired thousands and pushed our imaginations to stretch the possible into reality. The first to climb the grades 8b, 8b+ and 8c, he redefined what is possible. His vision and passion are largely responsible for the development of the hardest lines in the best (and best known) areas on Earth, from Magic Wood to Hueco Tanks, to the Rocklands ~Rock and Ice
For more on Fred Nicole visit http://www.prana.com/ambassadors/fred-nicole
AstroBen à Branson
Une après midi incroyable à Branson:
- La jonction 8B,
- La danse des balrogs, 8A+ (version tchèque)
- Chute après le crux dans la danse des balrogs (original), 8B
Passage en mode lactate
Pour ne pas perdre le bénéfice des séances de conti au bout du monde, direction un secteur isolé de la JA Martin, pour le retour-aller de Samothrace, (ouvert par JP Bouvier) soit environ une quarantaine de mouvements dans les 8A.
Marshall au Bout du Monde
Après une année noire, rien de tel qu'une bonne dose de conti pour se remettre la caisse. Direction le secteur du bout du monde à l'éléphant pour des traversées majeures de 80 mouvements.
Dans l'ordre d'apparition:
- La boucle du déversoir (8A),
- Un "nouveau" jeu "Le déversoir du bout du monde" (8A),
- Le déversoir par le bas en AR (8A+).